Today, we are heading south from Kruger National Park toward Piggs Peak along the MR1 Highway to Mbabane, Eswatini, in what was once the Kingdom of Swaziland.
Swaziland, now known as Eswatini, population 1.1 million, is a land-locked, developing country with a small economy. Originally part of Mozambique. After the Swazi people were forced to flee their neighboring original homes, they settled in their current location, and was later annexed by the British. Eswatini is bordered by Mozambique to its northeast, and South Africa to its north, west, and south. Siswati is the official language, along with English. The history of this country as a British colony influenced its political development and led to the establishment of two capitals, Mbabane and Lobamba. In Eswatini, about 71% of the population lives below the poverty level (living on less than $1.90 per day), and life expectancy is 59 years of age. World recession, failing productivity, drought, and food insecurity have all been contributors to the Swazi struggle. To fight poverty in Eswatini, some advocate the reallocation of resources, claiming this would help close the gap between the wealthy and the poor.
Eswatini is ruled under an absolute monarchy, which holds supreme authority. It is not restricted by written laws, legislature, or customs, which is true of hereditary monarchies. The current monarchy is ruled by King Mswati III, who inherited the throne in 1986. The king's net worth is upwards of $100 million USD.
This week just happened to be Eswatini's most well-known cultural event, the annual Umhlanga Reed Dance. In the eight-day ceremony, girls cut reeds and present them to the queen mother and then dance. During Umhlanga, the king chooses his next wife. He currently has fifteen.
On the morning that we crossed the border into Eswatini, we walked through customs, South Africa on one side, Eswatini on the other, and then proceeded to join our hosts who had prepared a VIP Swazi welcome.
The welcome ceremony started with an introduction, followed by some history of the people, their culture, and how they build their homes and community. The scripted program seemed to highlight the culture, without giving any indication of the struggles of the Swazi people. Realize that this information might take away from the happy presentation, but at least visitors do not walk away without having gained an appreciation for what those struggles are and how other countries might be enablers of the monarchy.
Swazi people, particularly those in the rural areas, might support the monarchy, but the monarchy does not support them back.
The principal Swazi social unit is the homestead, a traditional beehive hut thatched with dry grass. In a polygamous homestead, each wife has her own hut and yard surrounded by reed fences. There are three structures for sleeping, cooking, and storage (brewing beer).
Following the introduction, we were serenaded with song and provided with a dance performance. There were other tourist groups participating on the welcome, and many were invited to dance with the Swazis.
Finally, as with all gracious hosts, we were invited to enjoy a king's feast for lunch, then said our goodbyes to our new friends who led the cultural tour.
After seeing the land, roads, infrastructure of Swaziland, seeing the people's depressing living accommodations, and getting some history about the monarchy, specifically, how the king and his direct commanding reports live rather lavish lifestyles, one can only hope that new policy is created to address the increasing poor who are mainly made up of children.
We drove to the nearby Ngwenya Glass Factory to learn how 100% recycled glass is handblown, followed by the Swazi Candles Centre before checking into our overnight accommodations at the Lugogo Sun Hotel.
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