Before researching a vacation to Taiwan, we had never heard of Hualien, or why it was famous. Was it worth spending an entire day of our trip in Taipei to fly to Hualien, take a bus to and hike in Taroko Gorge?
I had just finished a business trip in Shanghai and Hefei China. The plan was for Derick to meet me in Taiwan upon flying in from San Francisco. A few days later, we were on a 50 minute flight from Taipei to Hualien, destination: Taroko Gorge.
Hualien is located on the east coast of Taiwan on the Pacific Ocean, with a tropical rainforest climate. Hualien has the largest aboriginal population in Taiwan, about 9,000. Even though Hualien has year-round rainfall, we were fortunate not to have any on this day.
The majestic mountains of Taroko Gorge National Park met and welcomed us as we entered its domain. We board a bus that would take us throughout the park, and allow time to hop off at specific scenic stops, take photos and small hikes, then continue on throughout the park.
Our mini-bus moved along Qingshui Cliff in the morning; large buses are not allowed this pleasure. The cliff stretches more than 13 miles, rises vertically from the Pacific Ocean, and is the only coastal road in Taroko National Park. We were enroute to our first of many stops, where we would hike through tunnels and along the Shakadang trail. At Qingshui Cliff, there is a pathway that leads to a beach, the Chongde Trail, to Chongde Beach, but we had other stops to make and continued on.
As part of the introduction into this particular area, we were advised that landslides or rockfalls often following heavy rains, typhoons or earthquakes can occur.
Thus, there were many signs warning visitors to beware of falling rocks. As a result, our guide gave us all hardhats to wear as we walked along the bridge and tunnels. However, once we reached the Shakadang Trail, hardhats were no longer needed.
To visualize hiking along the Shakadang trail, imagine a pebble rock path meandering up a slight incline, surrounded by mountains on one side and a crystal clear Shakadang River below. There are plenty of trees and shrubs to cool the pathway, but also let in some filtered sunlight. That was our exact experience on the Shakadang hike.
At the end of the trail, there was a peaceful, lush green overlook to admire, and marvel that we were fortunate to be in Taiwan to see its beauty, and all that it has to offer.
After our trail hike, we returned to the mini-bus to move along to the our next stop at the Eternal Spring Shrine.
Eternal Spring Shrine, is also known as Changchun Shrine, was built in 1989 to commemorate the workers who built the highway through Taroko National Park. The shrine, placed into the side of a mountain, is literally one with the mountain. It appears to have risen up from the lush green trees and waterfall that surrounds it. As a spectator, it feels like stepping into a "Chinese painting," as our guide eloquently described. The Changchun Falls, right below the shrine, never stop running. That might be why it is called "eternal spring."
Like a coiled dragon, the Tunnel of Nine Turns meanders high along the mountains, where visitors can experience an impressive view of the Liwu River. We made a stop at the Cihmu Bridge, and walked along it while catching the flow of the Liwu River below.
Cihmu Bridge, aka Loving Mother Bridge, first opened in 1959, but was expanded and reopened in 1995. It is 446 feet long, and 32 feet wide. The red bridge has marble railings on each side, and two marble lion sculptures on each end. The name of the bridge, Cihmu, comes from a story of how the rapid river once took an aboriginal boy’s life. Sadly, his mother waited for the boy by the river everyday, hoping and waiting for him to come home. Thus, the meaning of the bridge name, Loving Mother Bridge comes from that mother's perseverance and determination.
We made a final and more lengthy rest stop at the Lyushui Service Center Café', for a tea break and to stretch our legs. We received a pleasant surprise as we walked around the café' to it's outdoor deck, overlooking the river, which provided another breathtaking view of the park.
Lyushui Service Center was quite unexpected, and not just a café. It was an area of meditation and reflection of the Taroko Gorge experience in all of its glory. The scenic backdrop called out to us to order some tea, and take it all in. We ordered hot Oolong Milk Tea for NT150, or about USD $5.38. It was the best tea we ever had, and have yet to find anything close to that wonderful taste. We guess we will have to return one day.
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